Dogs need to use their brain and there are lot of opportunities that we can create to keep them mentally stimulated throughout the day. These can include things like sniffing, chewing, problem-solving, training sessions and even play.

Mental enrichment for dogs can be done cheaply and easily too depending on your budget.

Simple things like changing up the way you deliver your dog’s food can be enriching in itself.

Even the RSPCA recommend giving your dog lots of opportunities to play and chew alongside their physical exercise.

So what exactly is dog enrichment?

Enrichment gives your dog a chance to engage in behaviours they might have done in the wild. Mimicking natural behaviours that give them joy.  Which is why we call it enrichment. In our modern homes we simply put down in a bowl, they want for nothing! No hunting required. So we need to create opportunities for them to engage in activities such as:

Sniffing – this can be as simple as scattering their breakfast in the grass to sniff it out instead of putting it directly into a bowl

Searching – playing hide and seek with toys

Chewing – long lasting chews are relaxing as well as enriching

Licking – a skill we don’t think about often that can be utilised with things like licky mats

Problem solving – figuring out how to get treats out of an object

Exploring – going for a sniffy walk instead of worrying about how many miles you can get in on the pavement

Playing/chasing – exploring your inner child and getting down on the floor for a bit of tug and playtime!

Just remember – you don’t need to do these activities every waking moment of every day – just a few little sessions mixed into the day. Your dog’s sleep is just as important for their mental wellbeing.

Do I need more toys to create mental stimulation for my dog?

Not at all. Toys can be lovely (helloooo! We’re a pet shop – we’ve got them all and we’ve listed some below you can try out if you want), but there are lots of ways you can incorporate mental stimulation into your dog’s day with what you already have laying around the house, or by using a bit of imagination.

Let’s take breakfast for example. How can you make that more enriching?

We already talked about scattering it in the grass for them to sniff out.

But you could also:

• Hide the food
• Use it in a training session
• Play catch with it
• Roll it across the floor and chase it

If you want to utilise additional toys you can buy things like:

• Puzzle feeders
• Slow feeders
• Snuffle Mats
• Licky mats
• Toys that release food

Mental stimulation ideas using their nose

Your dog’s nose is ridiculously powerful and we forget about it. They experience much of the world through scent. We can utilise this by creating some great opportunities for them.

1.Hiding their favourite object

Lead your dog out of the room and show them their favourite toy – maybe they have a special name for it? Then pop it somewhere easily for them to find. Open the door and ask them to find it. Walk around the room and point around to encourage them to sniff it out. When they do find it make a huge fuss. Then play the game again. They should pick it up really quickly and eventually you can make it more difficult.

If your dog struggles with toys you could try a bit of cheese or smelly dog treats! Show them the cheese, close the door (or get someone else to hold their collar out of view while you hide the cheese) and do the same.

2.Cardboard box searches

All of that recycling can be put to good use by creating a city of cardboard boxes and tubs. Sprinkle in food and then let them go and sniff it all out and find it. This is great for confidence too as ultimately, you’re asking them to put their noses into objects, objects that might make noise or fall down.

Some dogs go in like boulders! Some find it harder and are a little more hesitant. In which case make it easier to start with and then build up the size and difficulty by closing boxes up etc.

3.Hiding food in the garden

Instead of sprinkling dog kibble in the garden can you make it a little harder and hide it in areas so that have to work a bit hard with their noise to find it all.

Mental stimulation ideas using chewing

Chewing is another basic instinct that dogs have and need. And the only way they can chew is when we give them things to chew! (Or else they’ll soon find something to get their teeth into – goodbye sofa…)

There is no set time for how long a dog should chew every day. But opportunities for chewing should absolutely happen daily.

What you give them will very much depend on age, size and their dental health. For example, with puppies we need to be very careful with their teeth. Not all chews are suitable from a really young age so it’s best to check with us when you come in.

Some dogs might also have a tendency to chew off big chunks and swallow them whole! So you need to take that into account.

There are SO many more chews available now than ever before. And at Petstop we’re proud to stock one of the biggest ranges of chews going. Something for everyone.

From pizzles to yak chews. Frozen marrow bones to ostrich bones. We’ve got loads to choose from.

Chews are also great at cleaning teeth so double up as a great health tool.

If you’re stuck for choice, we also have our very own treat bags. Here’s a selection:

Using toys and training for mental stimulation

Training is obviously a great way to mentally stimulate your dog. Learning a new trick like paw, or rolling over, is something you can get the whole family involved in.

Remember that training and play should be fun for your dog too. Here are some great tips:

Keep training sessions short. Some dogs will choose to wander off if it gets too hard, and loose interest, some dogs get over excited and might start barking at you when they’re not quite doing what you want. When the fun stops… stop.

Use the BEST training treats or toys. What does your dog prefer? Some dogs train better with toys, others with food, some like both. Reward your dog with whatever they love the most. And make training treats special. Something really rewarding that you only use in training.

Try not to leave your dogs toys out ALL the time. If they have a lot of toys then rotate them so it always feels like they have new toys they really want to get into. When you leave all their toys out they start to become part of the furniture and no longer exciting or fun. You could even save some special toys for training session sonly.

In summary

Enrichment can be about calm sniffing/chewing, or having fun with us. There are so many activities you can choose from every day to tick off that enrichment checklist.

We’d love to see you having fun with your dog! Share your pictures on social media and tag us and we’ll share on our monthly email.

Want some help with enrichment ideas for your dog? Or do they have any special needs that you need to take into account? Have a chat with us at the Pet shop and we’ll be more than happy to take you around the store and make some recommendations for you.

FAQs: Mental Stimulation and Enrichment for Dogs

Is walking enough to keep my dog mentally stimulated?

Walks offer lots of opportunities for mental stimulation, especially when your dog has time to sniff and explore. But walking isn’t the only way to keep their brain busy. Adding activities like searching for food, chewing, playing and short training sessions gives them opportunities to use different skills throughout the day.

How much mental stimulation does my dog need each day?

There isn’t a set amount that suits every dog. A few short activities spread throughout the day are a good starting point, adapting them to your dog’s interest and energy. You don’t need to keep them entertained every waking moment! Time to rest and sleep is just as important.

How can I mentally stimulate my dog at home?

Try hiding their favourite toy, scattering some of their usual food for them to sniff out, or practising a simple trick. You can also create search games using open cardboard boxes. Start with something easy and build up the challenge as your dog gets the hang of it.

Do I need to buy enrichment toys for my dog?

It’s entirely up to you! Puzzle feeders, snuffle mats and lick mats can be useful, but enrichment doesn’t have to cost anything to start with. Playing hide and seek with a toy you already own or using some of your dog’s breakfast for training are all small easy ways to start.

Does sniffing count as mental stimulation for dogs?

Totally. Sniffing gives dogs a chance to investigate their surroundings and follow interesting scents. Letting your dog take their time on a sniffy walk, or search for food at home, is a simple way to include mental enrichment in their day.

What if my dog gets frustrated with enrichment activities?

Make the activity easier. If your dog can’t get the food out of a puzzle or find a hidden toy, they can lose interest or become frustrated. Start with obvious hiding places and easy-to-access rewards, then gradually increase the difficulty. The aim is for your dog to enjoy themselves, so stop or change the activity if they’re struggling. Some dogs pick it up a lot faster than others.

Can I use my dog’s normal food for enrichment?

Sure – their usual food can work well for search games, training and food toys. Using part of their daily food allowance means enrichment doesn’t always involve extra treats.

Can mental enrichment replace walks?

Mental enrichment and physical exercise meet different needs, so it’s best to include both. Sniffing games, training and play add variety to their day, while walks also offer movement and opportunities to explore outside the house.

The post How to Keep Your Dog Mentally Stimulated – Enrichment Ideas for Dogs appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

For those of us who love a definitive answer, I’m sure that’s disappointing! But at least you now know that going for three treks a day isn’t necessarily the right option for your dog.

Some dogs love and thrive on long walks, others prefer shorter, slower sniffy walks. The PDSA do recommend daily exercise, but they add that it really should be tailored to the dog.

And let’s not forget, exercise involves both walking and mental stimulation. Which is why a border collie might spend two hours walking but still appear wired after. Yep – we’ve been there too. It’s all a bit of an experiment to be honest.

Daily exercise for your dog is NOT about tiring them out

Daily exercise is important for so many reasons. It’s not about tiring them out it’s about:

• Maintaining a healthy weight
• Improving muscle strength
• Improving their mental wellbeing
• Preventing them from getting bored
• Giving them some new opportunities to sniff and explore

Don’t think that the longer you go, the more tired your dog will be. Exhausting them and turning them into some marathon walker is actually going to do the reverse and you’re just training an athlete who WILL only be satisfied with a 2 hour walk.

Think about all the other benefits of walking, think about all the things their brain could be doing that benefit them, instead of insisting they march by your side for three miles non-stop. It’s well proven that exploratory walks and sniffing are as beneficial for a dog’s mental health, is well as physical exercise.

How much exercise do puppies need?

With puppies, we need to take some extra care because they’re still developing and growing. This is a useful Xray to show just how much growing there is to do and that by doing too much can actually damage them. Notice the gaps!

• Slow short gentle walks – that are utilised for sniffing and exploring and socialising with all the elements of the world.
• Very low impact and non repetitive play – no intense repetitive ball throwing
• Lots of rest – more than you think they need! This is why crates are handy as sometimes puppies need a little help to understand naptimes – much like a toddler!

What is the 5 minute rule per month for puppies?

There is actually no scientific evidence for this. It’s said that puppies should have daily walks of 5 minutes per month of age. But as people love to have a black and white answer, it’s one that was created as a guide. So, this is a bit of a myth. It’s all about a combination of stimulation, gentle exercise, rest and meeting all their needs.

How much exercise does my adult dog need daily

We need to think about exercise more broadly than a walk. Taking a dog for a 60-minute march with no room for sniffing and stopping, isn’t going to fulfil them as much as say a 30 minute stroll around the village taking in all the other lovely doggy smells that have been left behind. But because we often enforce our own human behaviours on our dogs, we think more in terms of walk = minutes of walking exercise.

Now that’s not to say your Collie wouldn’t love a 2-hour hike once a week, but always look at the dog in front of you. Don’t work on presumption. Use your dog’s breed as a starting guide. I know some collies who wouldn’t be able to herd a ball let alone sheep, yet some collies try to herd anything that dares to move. Same breed, different personalities

So think about all the other ways you can exercise your dog too:

• Free play – when’s the last time your dog just enjoyed being a dog? Or messed around with you in the garden with toys without any expectations? Chasing each other, bit of tug. It doesn’t have to be endless ball throwing. Let your hair down and let your inner child out!
• Training – training games are excellent to get your dog thinking hard.
• Swimming – there are doggie swim pools and natural lakes and rivers where it’s safe for them to swim.
• Scent games – hiding things around the house and in the garden can while away half an hour and all the sniffing is extremely rewarding and tiring.
• Agility – a great sport to get into. A lot of trainers do this locally and you can do it just for fun, you don’t have to be planning to go pro! You can also adapt this for all dogs.

What about if my dog is very high energy?

If you have a very high energy dog like a working breed or sports dog, that is very highly driven, try not to get into the trap that walking for longer is the answer. If you continually increase their daily exercise, you’ll build up a very fit dog if nothing else, and you’re essentially training it to run and require a marathon when there is no marathon to run!

Keep your dog mentally stimulated alongside walks to help with enrichment.

And if they’re struggling to settle at home despite walks and enrichment, then it might mean that they just need teaching how to settle and switch off. Dogs are fast learners. And if they’ve learned that every prompt from them, get an interaction from you, that’s what they’ll continue to do.

Some dogs do struggle with settling because of their inherent need to work and so need to understand that it’s okay to rest. It’s a skill and it can absolutely be taught.

If you’ve got any more questions about exercise, or would like some advice on things like harnesses, running gear, long lines and leads, there is always someone in the store on hand to help.

You can also click and collect from all our products online so if you see something you like you won’t miss out!

Harnesses

Leads

FAQs: How Much Exercise Does My Dog Need?

Is one walk a day enough for a dog?

It can be, depending on the dog. Some dogs are perfectly happy with one good walk alongside play, training, sniffing and enrichment at home. Others may benefit from several shorter walks throughout the day. The important thing is to look at your dog’s age, breed, fitness, personality and how well they settle afterwards rather than aiming for a fixed number of walks.

Can too much exercise be bad for a dog?

Yes. Too much exercise can be a problem, particularly if activity is increased very quickly or if your dog is still growing, elderly, injured or unfit. Repetitive high-impact activities can also place unnecessary strain on joints. Exercise should be built up gradually and adapted to the dog in front of you.

Does sniffing count as exercise for dogs?

Absolutely. Sniffing provides valuable mental stimulation and gives dogs the opportunity to explore their environment naturally. A slower walk with plenty of time to sniff can sometimes be more enriching than a much longer walk where your dog is expected to keep moving the entire time.

How do I know if my dog needs more exercise?

There isn’t one behaviour that automatically means a dog needs a longer walk. Restlessness, destructive behaviour or constantly asking for attention can sometimes be linked to boredom, but they can also be caused by anxiety, lack of mental stimulation or simply not knowing how to settle. Try looking at the whole picture rather than assuming more physical exercise is always the answer.

How do I know if my dog is getting too much exercise?

Signs can include your dog lagging behind on walks, becoming reluctant to exercise, excessive tiredness, stiffness afterwards, limping or struggling to recover normally. If you notice persistent pain, stiffness or a sudden change in your dog’s willingness to exercise, speak to your vet.

Is mental stimulation as important as physical exercise?

Yes. Dogs benefit from using their brains as well as their bodies. Training games, sniffing, scent work, puzzle feeders, play and enrichment can all help meet your dog’s mental needs. This can be especially important for intelligent or highly driven dogs who can walk for miles and still come home looking for something else to do.

Should senior dogs still be exercised every day?

Most senior dogs still benefit from regular exercise, although the type, duration and pace may need to change as they age. Shorter, gentler walks can help maintain mobility, muscle strength and mental wellbeing. If your older dog has arthritis, pain or another health condition, ask your vet what level of exercise is appropriate.

What is the best exercise for a high-energy dog?

There usually isn’t one single “best” activity. High-energy dogs often benefit from a mixture of physical exercise, sniffing, training, play and enrichment rather than simply making walks longer and longer. Teaching them how to relax and settle can also be just as important as keeping them active.

The post How much exercise does my dog need? appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

Why is routine dog care important?

The animal trust recommends regular grooming checks to keep on top of things like:

• Preventing ear mites/fleas
• Removing dead skin
• Preventing skin irritation
• Ventilating the skin
• Getting rid of dead hairs
• Promoting a healthy coat

But while doing general grooming and care checks you can also check for things like:

• lumps and bumps
• changes to the skin or coat
• sore or cracked paws
• overgrown or damaged nails
• red or uncomfortable ears
• changes to teeth or gums

You’re not just grooming or cleaning your dog; you’re carrying out preventative care.

The sooner you start this the sooner you can also clock what’s normal for your dog. As all dogs are different. What looks normal for one, might be different for another.

How often should you groom and check your dog?

So, there isn’t really an answer to this in terms of what’s classed as regular.

For example, a short-haired dog is going to need a lot less grooming than a long-haired dog, or a dog with a tight, curly coat like a cockapoo might need regular clips at the groomer.

Some dogs’ nails grow faster than others.

Some dogs do a lot of pavement walking, so their nails rarely need clipping at all.

Take a look at your dog and decide on their own schedule.

Maybe it’s a weekly brush and a quick check of their ears, nose, teeth and paws and then trim their nails once a month.

Or, if they have longer hair, a daily brush will keep tangles and things that can get stuck in their fur on walks at bay.

When it comes to bathing, a lot of dogs are actually pretty good at keeping themselves clean. Take a border collie for example, their coats are very well adapted to the outdoors and so once the mud dries, you’ll find that they tend to leave a dusting of dirt behind them!

Of course, if your dog rolls in something a bit less favourable you’re going to want to get the doggy shampoo out – we’ve even got ones that are dedicated to getting rid of those lovely fox poo smells.

What brush should I use for my dog’s coat?

Different coat types need different grooming tools, so there isn’t really a universal “best dog brush”.

Border Collies have double coats, and so you’ll need a brush or tool that can get through the topcoat and reach the softer undercoat underneath.

Some short breed dogs are better with a fine comb or a rubber grooming mitt.

Poodle-type dogs and breeds with a curly coat need more maintenance because their coats can matt easily, so look for slicker brushes that can work through curls and tangly areas around the ears, tail and armpits.

If you’re not sure, then ask us in the shop and we’ll show you the different tools for the different jobs!

How often should you bathe your dog?

Honestly? As we said before, dogs shouldn’t need bathing that often. But how often you do it will very much depend on their lifestyle and their coat.

Sometimes the reason to do it is simply that your dog has discovered something disgusting (either dead or droppings!) and decided to roll in it.

When you do bath them, please use a shampoo that’s specifically formulated for dogs. Human shampoos can irritate the skin. We’ve got lots of dog shampoos you can choose from.

How do you know when your dog’s nails need clipping?

If your dog’s nails don’t wear down naturally, then when they need clipping depends on how it’s affecting them. You can usually hear your dog tippy tapping on hard surfaces and see that their nails are touching the floor or in some cases they even start to make your dog walk differently. Ideally your dogs’ nails shouldn’t be taking significant weight when standing.

When you do clip them, you need to use special tools – NOT your home nail scissors! Dog’s nails are tough. So you need to use dog nail clippers or a grinder.

You also need to be aware of something call the quick. This is the sensitive bit within the nail that contains blood vessels and nerves. If your dog has clear nails, you can see it – but it’s harder to see in black or darker nails.

If you cut into the quick, then your dog’s claw is likely to bleed, and it can also cause them some pain. So, take tiny snippets at a time instead of trying to cut a large bit off in one go. This will also be more comfortable for your dog.

If you’re struggling, especially with dark nails, then speak to your vet and they’ll give you a hand.

What about your dog’s paws?

These could do with a little check over every now and again. They’re in constant use of course! Don’t forget to check between pads too for things like:

• cuts
• cracks
• thorns
• grass seeds
• redness
• broken nails
• ticks

Do I need to regularly clean my dog’s ears too?

PDSA advises that most dogs don’t need regular ear cleaning unless they have particularly waxy or dirty ears or suffer recurrent ear problems. If an ear is red, painful, smells unusual or has discharge, you should contact a vet rather than simply cleaning it.

Signs to look for:

• redness
• swelling
• excessive wax
• discharge
• unusual funny smell
• head shaking
• scratching
• pain or sensitivity

Note: Never put cotton buds into your dog’s ear canal. PDSA specifically warns against this because it can push debris further into the ear or cause damage.

What can I do to look after my dog’s teeth?

Dental care is important, not just because it’s kind to keep your dog’s teeth in good condition, but because often, it’s not covered under insurance. So, if your dog ever has any problems with their teeth, it’s likely not to be covered and can get very expensive very quickly!

Plaque can build up and harden into tartar, contributing to dental and gum disease. So it’s recommended that you brush your dog’s teeth every day.  But we totally get that this isn’t always an option for everyone. Especially with nervous dogs.

Some of the things available to help you clean your dogs teeth.

• dog toothbrush and toothpaste – these can come in different types from the brushes that slip over your finger, to an actual toothbrush. Toothpaste comes in different flavours to make it more palatable.
• dental chews – these are specially formulated sticks that are designed to help remove plaque and freshen breath.
• dental supplements – you sprinkle or mix these into your dog’s food, usually made from seaweed, they naturally react with the plaque in your dogs mouth and freshen their breath at the same time.

Note: Never use human toothpaste. Some contain ingredients that are toxic to dogs so stick to the specially formulated dog toothpastes.

It goes without saying, that if you notice anything unusual your vet is always a good point of call. If your dog doesn’t like to be handled many vets will be happy for you to take a few pictures, or a video.

And of course, we’ve got everything you need in store to make up your very own at home care kit so just pop in and we’ll give you a hand.

The post What care does a dog need at home? appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

Your dog’s age and sensitivities also play a part in choosing the right dog food. So how do you know where to start when there is so much choice now?! Gone are the days of the supermarket stocking a few tins of dog food.

Now we have every type of food imaginable to cater to every dog’s need. Which is amazing when you think about it. Instead of treating dogs as all having the same needs, we’re considering their individuality. Which leads to a healthier and happier dog in the long term. Not to mention far less smelly and soft poops! Because no one likes picking those up right?.

So, what is the “best” food for my dog?

This might be the only time on one of our blogs that we say there isn’t one answer. Sorry. There is no specific “best” food for any dog. We can steer you in certain directions, but one size does not fit all in this case.

Some people don’t like to handle raw and so they’d rather feed their dogs dry food. Raw can also be more expensive. But that’s not to say that some of the dry food options are cheap.

The age of your dog, lifestyle and dietary needs is all relevant.

So rather than look at the “best” type of food. Let’s dive into the different “types” so you can figure out which is the best one for YOUR dog and YOUR lifestyle.

What stage of life is your dog at?

Is your dog a puppy, adult or senior?

A dog’s nutritional needs will change throughout their life. So looking at their age is the first thing to consider.

When puppies are growing, they need the right nutrition to support their growing bones, muscles and organs. Then once they hit adulthood, it’s all about maintaining their good body shape. But once in their senior years (anywhere from around 7-8 years old), maintaining muscle mass is important, so good quality protein is an important part of their diet.

You can keep an eye on your dog’s body shape by eye, and if they seem to be losing or putting on weight with no real explanation, maybe it’s time for a little vet visit.

What size and breed is your dog?

Size matters in this case! And the breed will determine if they have working lines. Some dog food is labelled specifically for ‘working dogs’ but that’s just a guide. We know some Labradors who are very happy to potter around the village and sleep most of the day, while some spend their days working in the fields. This distinction matters and so does their food. No one size fits all!

Smaller dogs may prefer small-sized kibble, which we find helps if you use it for training, as it lasts longer.

It’s a good idea to pay more attention to the activity of your dog. You know your dog better than anyone and their energy levels may change depending on the season or time of year.

We know dogs of similar sizes who eat very different amounts of food, because one is a lot more active than the other, and so need the extra calories.

What type of dog food should you choose?

Dry Dog Food

Dry dog food is usually the most popular type of food for dogs because of the convenience for dog owners. It’s easy to store and can be used for training and in things like puzzle feeders without causing a mess.

Dry food is dense, so it’s a good idea to make sure you weigh out what your dog needs every day to avoid overfeeding.

There are lots of dry dog foods available, from puppy to seniors to working dogs. There are even semi moist versions which tend to go down well with dogs who might be a bit fussier.

If your dog doesn’t like or get on with dry food for whatever reason, then there are lots of other options

Wet Food

Wet food contains more moisture than dry food so if you have a dog that struggles to drink a lot of water this will really help. A lot of dogs prefer the smell and texture too. If you’ve got an older dog that struggles to chew, wet food is a great option.

Wet and dry food can contain the same nutrients that a dog needs so there’s no best or worst choice there.

Wet food does need eating quite quickly once opened as it doesn’t stay as fresh and you likely need to feed more because it’s less dense.

Raw dog food

Raw has become increasingly popular over the years, to the extent that we now have a whole room full of freezers dedicated to it! With lots of local suppliers to choose from so you know your food hasn’t travelled too far together with all your brand favourites.

There are different types of raw, from raw meat, to complete raw which contains all the additional nutrition your dogs need. Which is important, as feeding just meat alone is not a sustainable diet for your dog.

Some people are concerned about hygiene when feeding raw, which is a valid concern, but all of the raw provided by our suppliers is tested constantly and prepared in batches to ensure the highest standards.

If you’re thinking about feeding your dog raw for the first time, we also have a raw food dog guide that dives into everything you need to know.

What should I be looking at on dog food labels?

Complete food

When you see something labelled as complete food this means it’s been formulated with all the essential nutrients your dog needs so can be used as a daily diet for your dog.

Other foods are usually complementary. So you can feed them alongside their complete meal. Like chews, treats and toppers.

Protein

Protein is essential for dogs as it provides amino acids that dogs need for things like muscle maintenance, enzymes, hormones and body function. Protein can be found in things like chicken, beef, lamb, eggs, fish turkey and other plant based ingredients. Some dogs can have an allergy to chicken but there are plenty of other proteins to choose from.

Feeding guidelines

All foods will have a feeding guide, and for those of you that like to have very specific instructions, you’ll likely find this a little frustrating as the guides are usually quite broad! They tend to give you a range for each weight of the dog (for puppies this is usually the “expected” adult weight but read the guide carefully

It’s a starting point.

Just like humans, you’ll need to take in lots of different factors like activity levels and energy needs, keep an eye on your dogs body condition and weight and adjust accordingly.

Dog food labels can give you useful clues, but no single ingredient or percentage tells you whether a food is right for your dog – the overall nutritional balance and how your dog does on it matters most.

Signs to look out for that your dog doesn’t get on with their food

Appetite is usually the first most obvious one. If they’re turning their nose up at it, there’s something that they either really don’t like, or even upsetting their tummy. You might also notice lose stools.

Some dogs might show signs of being allergic to chicken through itching.

If your dog is losing or gaining weight this might mean the amount you’re giving them needs adjusting.

If they’re panting a lot, that could indicate they feel sick, and of course, any vomiting or severe diarrhoea- always check with your vet in case it needs any further investigation and let them know that your dog has recently started a new food. It may be that – or it may just be a coincidence that they started new food at the same time.

Still not sure which dog food to choose?

No problem! The choice CAN feel overwhelming. Pop into the pet shop and we’ll talk through your dog, their breed and age, and likes or dislikes and we’ll give you a few to choose from.

We also have our very own wet and dry ranges that we’ve carefully handpicked because they cover everything your dog needs nutrition wise.

FAQs: How to Choose the Right Dog Food for Your Dog

1. What is the best food for my dog?

There isn’t one single “best” food for every dog. The right choice depends on your dog’s age, size, breed, activity level, lifestyle, sensitivities and individual dietary needs. The most important thing is choosing a food that provides complete and balanced nutrition that your dog does well on.

2. What does “complete” dog food mean?

A complete dog food has been formulated to provide all the essential nutrients your dog needs as part of their daily diet. Other foods like treats, chews and toppers, may be complementary rather than complete and should be fed alongside a complete food.

3. Should I feed my dog dry, wet or raw food?

Dry, wet and raw food can all be suitable options, depending on your dog and your lifestyle. Dry food is convenient and easy to store, wet food provides additional moisture and can be useful for dogs who struggle to drink or chew, while complete raw food can provide a balanced diet when properly formulated. No single type is best for every dog.

4. Does my dog’s age affect the food they need?

Yes! Puppies need nutrition to support the growth of their bones, muscles and organs, while adult dogs need food that helps maintain a healthy body condition. For senior dogs, maintaining muscle mass becomes more important.

5. Does my dog’s size or activity level affect how much food they need?

100%. Dogs of the same size can need very different amounts of food depending on how active they are. A working or highly active dog may need more calories than a dog that spends most of its day relaxing. Feeding guidelines are a useful starting point, but you should also monitor your dog’s weight and body condition and adjust their food as needed.

6. What should I look for on a dog food label?

Start by checking whether the food is labelled as complete. You can also look at the protein sources and feeding guidelines. The thing is, no single ingredient or percentage tells you whether a food is right for your dog. Overall nutritional balance and how your individual dog responds to the food matter more.

7. How can I tell if my dog doesn’t get on with their food?

Signs can include a lack of appetite, loose stools, itching or changes in weight. Some dogs may develop sensitivities to particular ingredients, such as chicken. Always discuss vomiting or severe diarrhoea with your vet, especially if your dog has recently started a new food.

8. What should I do if I’m not sure which food to choose for my dog?

Choosing dog food can feel overwhelming because there are so many options. Consider your dog’s age, breed, size, activity level, likes, dislikes and dietary needs. If you’re still unsure, speak to us in the pet shop or your vet can help you narrow down the options and find a suitable food for your dog.

The post How to Choose the Right Dog Food for Your Dog appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

If you’re looking for a puppy in Peterborough, then we hope you’ve stumbled across this article so that you’ve got all the information you need before you go looking.

Sadly, there are a lot of unwanted dogs in the UK, and often with just a few more checks at the start, problems can be avoided for the best possible chance of starting off on the right foot with your puppy.

You might not think it now –  how on earth could you fall out of love with your dog? Puppies are so cute! But a puppy is a huge commitment and very much like having a new baby. It can be exhausting (and costly) – so let’s help you make sure you’re asking the right questions and have some realistic expectations.

We’re also on hand to help in any way we can. You wouldn’t be the first person to pop into the pet shop in tears because your puppy is driving you crazy! We’ve got lots of tricks up our sleeves that we’re happy to share – so please don’t ever feel you can’t come and talk to us. Pop into our pet shop near Peterborough anytime.

What should you look for when buying a new puppy?

When looking for a new puppy we think there is a very specific checklist of things you should be looking for, from meeting the puppy with its mother, to vet checks and socialisation, a good breeder will do all of this for you, no questions asked.

• Meeting the new puppy with its mother.

On 6^th April 2020 Lucy’s Law was introduced which bans the sale of puppies or kittens from third parties. This means it’s against the law to buy them from a middle man. Puppies and kittens should be available directly from the breeder or rescue or rehoming centre.

Puppies rely on their mothers heavily in those first weeks. It’s only around 8-10 weeks that they stop paying interest in their mums. By that point they’ve been fully weaned and become more independent. They should be with their mum for at least 8 weeks, some professionals recommend 10-12 weeks. If you can’t see the puppy with their mum, then take that as a very big red flag.

• Seeing where they’ve been raised

You’ll want to see how the puppies have been raised. Their environment. A home where they’ve been exposed to noises and the usual household chaos. Have they been giving a safe and sensory enriching environment with things that play, and move?

• Are the puppies looking confident?

There will always be one or two puppies that are less confident than the others. They all have their own personalities after all! But in general, are they confident and happy to come and say hello? A nervous puppy “could” have more struggles, as anxiety can grow into reactivity. But it might also mean a slight quieter and less boisterous puppy. Look for general confidence overall from the group. Are they happy to say hello and run around their environment without fear or are they all hiding in the corner?

• Do they look clean and healthy?

Do the puppies have clear eyes, moving normally without and unusual movement to their legs? Do they look to be a good weight and no underfed? When holding them have a closer inspection. Does anything look odd to you?

• Have they had their health checks, and will they be vaccinated and microchipped before they leave?

It should be the norm so if anyone tries to convince you otherwise it’s a red flag. All puppies must be microchipped and had their first vaccination usually between 6 and 8 weeks. You’ll have to take them for their second vaccination around 10-12 weeks.

You’ll want the vaccination record to take to your vets so they know exactly what the puppy has had. You’ll also be able to transfer the ownership under the microchip to you.

• What can they tell you about the parents?

You should be meeting the mum on your visit, but what can they tell you about the dad? Dads are often used as studs for many different litters, done their job and moved on back to their home! But they should have hand-picked him for his temperament and suitability, so find out as much as you can.

What will a puppy breeder ask you?

A good puppy breeder should be picky about where their pups go. They shouldn’t be handing them out no questions asked. That is a red flag. They’ll likely ask you:

• About your home life and who you live with
• About your work life and who’s going to look after the puppy while you work
• About your prior experience with dogs
• About your experience with the breed (especially if it’s a breed that has more complex needs, for example a Border Collie)

Be honest with them. It won’t necessarily mean you don’t get the puppy. It just means they can gauge how much support you might need and whether a different breed will suit you. They might also be able to direct you to the best pup for you. If you’re looking for a busy dog to get into sports, that’s very different from a puppy who’s pretty laid back and quiet. They can pick up on those little personality traits as they’re with them day in day out.

Will you need to sign a puppy contract?

In our experience, all good breeders will have a contract that says if there’s a problem, you promise to take the puppy directly back to them to rehome. This is really important to good breeders so it’s not unusual to see.

A contract will also confirm things like deposit paid and the cost of your puppy.

If you have a kennel club registered dog there might be stipulations in there that you’re not allowed to breed the puppy, or that if you do, you won’t be able to register them under the kennel club without the breeder’s agreement.

Is a puppy the right thing for your lifestyle?

Okay let’s get real about some of the commitments so you know exactly what you’re signing up for. And the pros and cons of owning a puppy:

• How long do you work?

You might work 9am until 2pm. But take into account travel time and traffic jams. What time so you leave the house and get back? Is it more like 8 to 3? Whatever times you work, even as an adult dog they’re likely going to need to at least go outside to relieve themselves, and they will need to be trained to be happy left alone while you’re at work. Think about how you’ll manage that later on.

• Toilet training

In those early days you need to watch them like a hawk to get toilet training underway. Most people take a couple of weeks off work to settle them in. Once they get to about 12 weeks you could leave them for 1-2 hours. And then from 3 months on 3 hours. Slowly upping the time as they get older. These are just rough guidelines; they really do depend on your puppies development.

Smaller dogs tend to take longer to train with their teeny, little bladders.

Bigger breeds can sometimes get it within a matter of days. The more time you can spend with them on it, the less accidents you’ll have and the more successful they’ll be.

• Expect sleepless nights

Just like babies, some go through the night quickly, others take time. There are lots of ways to train your puppy to sleep through the night, but those first few weeks expect it to be broken. Most puppies simply cannot hold their bladder all through the night so you will be getting up once to let them out.

They’ve also just gone from being in a warm huddle of puppies to totally alone. So having the crate in your room with you, and then slowly moving it out over time, is going to really help them with that transition. Put the time and effort into training now and you’ll reap the rewards later!

• Vet bills are expensive!

The average cost of an X-ray at the vets, including sedation, is anywhere between £150 and £550. But from our experience it’s nearer the top end of that! And that’s not including medication, follow ups and an overnight stay. If the Xray doesn’t give your vet enough information and your dog is referred for a specialist CT scan this can cost around £1200 to £2000.

Pet Insurance is a lifesaver here and can cost upwards of £20 a month depending on the different levels of cover. Things like dentistry, worming and fleaing and vaccinations, are all costs not usually covered by insurance so additional on top.

• Puppy training

Puppies will train themselves if you don’t have some prior training knowledge. And dog training has come on a long way over the last 50 years. So much of what we thought we knew back then has been updated with more modern methods based on years of scientific research on dog behaviour. Training can be a lot of fun and you can get the whole family involved! Training can also help with those expensive vet bills too by learning how to keep them out of trouble.

It’s a lot to think about and take in. And whether you choose to go down the route of adopting a dog, or buying a new puppy, both can bring equal amounts of joy to your life.

We know that dogs (generally) bring us longevity. They force us to exercise more. Spending time with them can lower our cortisol levels. They can reduce feelings of loneliness. There are lots of pros to be had.

But it’s a commitment. We can’t expect them to act exactly as we want, they’re not robots, and we might be disappointed if things don’t work out as we would wish. But it’s the chance we take!

Just make sure you bring your new puppy into the shop so we can give them lots of cuddles and free treats!

Absolutely — I’d use FAQs to pick up the specific puppy-buying questions someone searching around Peterborough might ask, rather than repeating whole sections of the article.

FAQs about finding a puppy for sale

Where can I find puppies for sale in Peterborough?
If you’re looking for a puppy in Peterborough, take your time finding a responsible breeder rather than choosing based on location or availability alone. Under Lucy’s Law, puppies should be bought directly from the breeder who bred them or adopted through a legitimate rescue or rehoming organisation. Always visit the puppy where they were raised and ask to see them with their mother.

How can I tell if a puppy breeder is reputable?
A responsible breeder should be happy for you to visit, meet the puppy with their mum and see where the litter has been raised. They should be open about health, temperament and the puppy’s parents, provide paperwork and ask you plenty of questions too. A good breeder will care a lot about where their puppies are going.

What are the red flags when buying a puppy?
If you can’t meet the puppy with their mum, the seller wants to meet somewhere other than where the puppy was raised, you’re put under pressure to pay quickly or the puppies appear unwell or unusually fearful. A seller who asks very little about you or your home can also be a warning sign.

How old should a puppy be before leaving its mother?
Puppies should not leave their mother before eight weeks old. Those early weeks with their mother and littermates are important for their physical, behavioural and social development.

Should a puppy be microchipped before I buy them?
Yep! Puppies in England must be microchipped by eight weeks old and the breeder should be recorded as the first keeper. When you take your puppy home, you’ll need to make sure the microchip details are transferred and kept up to date.

What paperwork should I get when buying a puppy?
Ask for the puppy’s microchip details, vaccination and veterinary records and information about any relevant health testing carried out on the parents. A responsible breeder will usually also provide a puppy contract detailing the sale and their responsibilities should you no longer be able to care for the dog.

Should I meet both of a puppy’s parents?
You should expect to meet the puppy’s mother, but it’s quite normal for the father not to live with the breeder as often they’re stud dogs that live with someone else and could be anywhere in the UK. Ask about his temperament, health and any breed-specific health testing, as well as why the breeder chose that particular dog.

How long can a puppy be left alone?
Young puppies need frequent toilet breaks, supervision and gradual training to become comfortable being left alone. Rather than working towards a fixed number of hours immediately, build up alone time slowly according to your puppy’s age, confidence and individual needs.

How much does owning a puppy cost?
The purchase price is just the start!  You’ll need to budget for food, vaccinations, preventative healthcare, insurance, training, equipment and routine veterinary care, as well as unexpected vet bills. It’s worth working out an ongoing monthly budget before bringing your puppy home so you can make sure it’s affordable long term.

Should I get pet insurance for my puppy?
Pet insurance can help protect you against unexpected veterinary costs, which can quickly run into hundreds or thousands of pounds. Policies vary considerably, so check the level of veterinary cover, exclusions, excess and whether conditions remain covered year after year. Look at the small print before you buy.

Should I take time off work when I bring a puppy home?
If possible absolutely. Having some time at home can make settling in, toilet training and establishing a routine far easier. However, it’s also important to introduce short periods alone so your puppy gradually learns that being left is safe and normal.

What should I do after bringing my new puppy home?
Register them with a local vet, check when their next vaccinations and preventative treatments are due and start looking for suitable puppy training and socialisation opportunities. You’ll also need the basics such as food (if transitioning from the breeder’s food, do this slowly – chat to us in store for more info), a bed or crate, lead, collar or puppy harness, toys and plenty of treats for training. And, of course, you’re always welcome to pop into the pet shop for help choosing what you need.

The post How to find a healthy and happy puppy for sale in Peterborough – A puppy buying guide appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

The last thing anyone wants is a failed adoption – and it can happen for legitimate reasons. But if you want the best possible chance of a successful adoption then this is our ultimate guide on finding the right dog, through everything we’ve learned from trainers and dog owners.

Where Can You Adopt a Dog in Peterborough?

We don’t have anywhere that we personally recommend. But what we can do is break down the differences between a rescue centre or charity, and adopting from an individual, and give you a bit of detail on the things to look out for. Rescuing from a well-known charity and centre for example is likely going to give you more aftercare and support than a dog owner who needs to give up their dog.

Local dog rescue centres and charities

These are usually the best places to go as often they come with many advantages such as

• Will likely take the dog back if for some reason the relationship doesn’t work out.
• Offer you ongoing support with your new dog and answer any questions or queries you have about their ongoing care
• Sometimes have an in-house dog behaviourist or training that can help and support with any ongoing behaviour problems
• Will have likely done a comprehensive assessment to ensure the dog only goes to a home that can care for the dog’s very specific needs
• They tend not to home dogs to children under the age of 13 or sometimes children at all. This is because it’s very difficult to ascertain how “safe” a dog might be around children if they don’t have a full history of the dog. And of course – they’re relying on the previous owners telling the truth. All dog’s have teeth. And all dogs can bite. The sweetest behaving dogs can behave entirely differently at one accidental fur pull so care does need to be taken around young children.

Adopting a dog from an individual

It’s quite common for owners to put their dogs on local selling sites instead of taking them to a homing charity.

Adopting from an unknown individual is not something we would recommend. There are lots of reasons for this including:

• You are more at risk of the previous owner not taking the dog back should a problem occur. Leaving you to take the dog to a rescue charity. The upset for the dog of being moved from one unknown place to the next has a huge impact on their confidence which can lead to increased reactivity and unwanted behaviour making their chances of adoption even smaller. Much safer and better to know that the dog can go back to a place it recognises and knowing they’ll be well looked after.
• You might not get the “whole” picture of the dog’s history. If someone is selling their dog online instead of going to a rescue, you absolutely should be asking the question why – but you might not get the entire answer.
• The dog could be stolen. It does happen sadly. And you will never know.
• The dog is unlikely to have had a full health check. We love our dogs and would do anything for them. And just because a dog has an underlying health condition of course might not stop you from adopting the right dog for you. But health costs add up so you should be made aware form the start so you can prepare.

How Does Dog Adoption Work?

Step 1 is to find a dog that might suit you and your lifestyle. Sign up to local dog rescues in Peterborough so you get notified when a suitable dog comes up. Be honest about your circumstances, especially if you have children and go out to work. Rescues will often take applications from all over the UK to search a little further afield, as far as you’re happy to travel, as you’ll likely end up making a few trips to meet the dog before you finally adopt them.

Step 2 is to actually apply when a dog comes up. Know that if you have holidays planned it’s probably going to mean a “no” this time. There is always a long list of people waiting and they will want to home the dog asap rather than keep hold of it until you get back from your holiday! Lots of people have done this in the past and let rescues down on their return so don’t expect them to do this for you.

Step 3 is they might want to do a home check – nothing serious. They just want to verify you are who you say you are. Don’t worry, they’re not coming to see how tidy and clean your house is! They want to make sure it’s safe for the dog. That they can’t escape. And that you’ve got room and a garden if you said you have.

Step 4 is when you’ll meet your potential dog. It might still be a potential at this point and they might ask you to pop back a few times. If you have another dog, and your potential adoptee is dog savvy, they might suggest bringing them along and doing a casual walk together around the grounds. It’s not a sign they won’t’ get on – but some rescues like to see the other dogs it’s going to be homed with.

Meeting your dog in person can be super nerve wracking but don’t worry! You’ll get some time with them to have fuss and cuddles and make sure there’s a potential bond between you both.

Step 5 is the boring but necessary part, paperwork. This is always a must and tends to be an agreement whereby you accept your ownership, and may stipulate a few things that form an agreement. That you’ll spend time helping your dog adjust (and some will need a LOT of time) and they will agree to take the dog back if after a set amount of time and support it’s just not working. They’ll also be the adoption fee too. This is generally low and covers re-homing fees and it won’t be anywhere near the cost of a new dog.

Step 6 is when you bring your dog home! The adoption is successful! You’ll arrange to go and collect your dog and take them home. Now the fun begins!

What are the benefits of adopting a dog?

There are lots of benefits of adopting a dog including:

1. The knowledge that you’re giving this dog a second chance at life. Not all dogs are lucky enough and although we do try very hard not to euthanise dogs in this country, if there is a whiff of a biting or snapping history and no one to take the dog, it’s an option some feel they must go with. Even when those incidents have happened for circumstances that could have otherwise been reasonably controlled. According to statistics, 21 dogs are euthanised every day because they can’t find a home.
2. You already know your dog’s personality.  (Kind of!). We say “kind of” as you can never be 100% sure. Many dogs will slowly uncover their personality the longer they’re with you. Puppies can often go through all sorts of transitions before you uncover their personality. And how you train them, and their experiences will all effect how they develop.
3. You don’t have to go through the toilet training and sleepless nights! Again, this might not be true for all rescues, there could be some toileting issues or sleepless nights in those early days as they adjust. But likely no where near as time consuming as a puppy – which most people say is like having a baby all over again!

So what are the cons of adopting a dog?

The main con is that you don’t really know 100% how your dog is going to be. Even the rescues will tell you this. Even with all the assessments and monitoring that they do, after a few months post adoption and settling in you might see little behaviours or quirks emerge. Some might be amusing. Some annoying! But that’s the same with all dogs. Dogs are not robots and nor should we expect them to be! They’re our partners and teammates. They are animals that deserve our respect and understanding.

We get MANY rescues visiting us in the shop and they are absolutely darlings. Dogs are social creatures who enjoy being around their people. Some of them have a very select “few” people. Some are cheeky, funny, naughty, cute, and downright exhausting! Just be prepared that you might not get exactly what you want.

But like we always say, you don’t always get the dog you want, you get the dog you need.

If you’re bringing a rescue dog home and you’re local to Peterborough and Stamford, and you want to come and talk to us about all the essentials you might need for their first night, pop into our petshop and have a chat we’d love to help you!

FAQs about adopting a dog

Where can I adopt a dog in Peterborough?
There are dog rescue centres and rehoming charities in and around Peterborough, but national charities also accept applications from people in the area. It can be worth widening your search beyond Peterborough, as finding a dog that suits your home, lifestyle and experience is more important than finding the closest rescue centre.

How much does it cost to adopt a dog in Peterborough?
Adoption fees vary between rescue centres and charities. The fee usually contributes towards the costs of caring for the dog while they’re waiting for a new home and may include things such as vaccinations, microchipping, neutering and health checks. Always check exactly what’s included with the individual rescue.

What should I look for in a reputable dog rescue?
A good rescue should ask plenty of questions about your home, lifestyle and experience before matching you with a dog. They should also be open about the dog’s known history, health and behaviour, explain their adoption process clearly and ideally offer support after you take your dog home.

Is it safe to adopt a dog from a private individual?
There are more risks when adopting or buying a dog directly from someone you don’t know. You may have less information about the dog’s health, behaviour and history, and there may be little support if the placement doesn’t work out. If you’re considering a privately rehomed dog, ask plenty of questions and look at evidence, and don’t feel pressured into making a quick decision.

Can I adopt a dog if I have children?
Possibly, but this will depend on the individual dog. Some dogs can live happily with children, while others need an adult-only home or a home with older children. Be completely honest about who lives in your household so the rescue can make the safest match for everyone.

Can I adopt a rescue dog if I already have a dog?
Yes, depending on the dogs involved. A rescue may arrange for your existing dog to meet the potential new dog, sometimes beginning with a walk together in a neutral environment. The aim is to assess whether they’re likely to be comfortable living together.

Do dog rescues carry out home checks?
Some rescues carry out home checks before approving an adoption. They’re generally interested in whether your home is safe and suitable for that particular dog rather than how tidy it is. For example, they may check your garden, fencing and whether there are any obvious escape routes.

How long does it take a rescue dog to settle into a new home?
Every dog is different. Some appear comfortable relatively quickly, while others can take weeks or months before they feel completely secure and start showing their full personality. Giving them time, space, consistency and realistic expectations can make those first few weeks much easier. Everyone is keen to get their dog out walking but they might just need a week or two in the house and garden to relax first.

What do I need before bringing an adopted dog home?
The exact essentials will depend on your dog, but you’ll usually need suitable food, bowls, a comfortable bed, collar or harness, lead, identification tag, poo bags and a safe way to transport them home. Your rescue should tell you what the dog currently eats and whether there is anything specific they recommend.

What happens if adopting a dog doesn’t work out?
Speak to the rescue as soon as possible rather than struggling alone. A reputable rescue should explain what support is available and what happens if the placement genuinely isn’t right. Many will require the dog to be returned to them rather than privately rehomed elsewhere.

Should I adopt a dog or get a puppy?
There isn’t one right answer. An adult rescue dog may already have some training and you may have a better idea of their personality, whereas a puppy requires significant time for toilet training, socialisation and general training. Think carefully about your lifestyle, experience and the amount of time you can realistically give your new dog.

The post Adopt a Dog in Peterborough: A Guide to Finding the Right Dog appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

But if you’re not used to taking them away, what do you need to know? What should you take? And what are the laws around safety for your dog in the car?

All valid questions that we answer for you in today’s article. From the ultimate checklist before you leave, to holiday cottage tips that make sure everyone has a good time if you’re travelling with your dog this summer.

Things to take with you

You spend time thinking about what to take for the family and now you need a checklist for your dog! Don’t worry, we’ve got you.

1. Travel harness – if your dog is going to be sat in the back of the car, they need to be strapped in with a dog harness and strap that can clip into the seatbelt. By law, dogs need to be secured in the vehicle and not loose. If you don’t have any of these yet you can check ours out below.

SEATBELT CLIP

• Crate. If you plan to crate your dog at your destination you might need to take one with you. Although some holiday rentals may have one they can set up for you. Even when folded dog crates take up a lot of space so make sure you plan for it by doing a trial run of everything you’re going to pack.
• Seat protector. Handy if you have a dog that sheds a lot, or if you plan to give them any chews in the car to protect the seats. If you’re headed to the countryside or beach it keeps all the muck on the protector and away from your car.
• Frist Aid Kit. Always handy to have a few dog safe first aid supplies on hand such as antiseptic spray or wipes. Your holiday destination might cater for this but it’s good to have in the car. Keep it out so you know where it is – you could always pack it with your own first aid kit.
• Tick Remover. Perhaps not an obvious thing to pack, but if you don’t get many ticks in your area that’s not to say you won’t get them wherever you’re going. Ticks need to be removed asap. Tick removers are super affordable and an effective way to get rid of these pesky insects that can actually cause harm to our dogs if we don’t remove them quickly.
• Water and collapsible bowl. A bowl and some fresh water is a must. You can even get travel bowls with little discs on the top so your dog can drink on the go without worrying about spillages in the car.
• Treats and chews. If you’re going on a long journey, it’s good idea to keep something like a long lasting chew to occupy them if they get a bit restless. Most dogs will tend to sleep in the car but not all! If your dog gets car sick however it’s likely not a good idea.
• Things to keep your dog cool. Most cars are set up with air conditioning now. But if you’re parked in a hot spot for a while, when you get back it can feel like a furnace. You could use screen shades to keep the sun out, or even a cooling mat in the car for the hotter days.

Things to take to the beach with your dog

If you’re headed out for the day or on holiday, we’re going to take a wild guess that a beach trip is in mind. And with the amount of coastal spots we have in the UK you’re spoilt for choice. But a few beach essentials wouldn’t go amiss, take it from us! Here are a few things people have told us are a non-negotiable when going to the beach.

1. Sunshade. Whether it’s a pop-up tent or parasol you can stick in the sand – some shade for your dog is a must. It might be breezy or feel cool, but that sun can hit hard if you’re sat in it all day and 9/10 there is little to no shade on the beach. Your dog will be so thankful for it!
2. Waterproof mat. If they’re a swimmer you might want to get a waterproof mat for them to lie and sleep on.
3. Food in containers. Ideally you don’t want open packets of food on the beach laying around so decant food into containers so that you can easily pop lids back on when they’re finished.
4. Stake to attach your dog’s lead. If your dog is likely to take off, and you want them on a long line, you can get stakes that go into the sand to keep them close by. Always make sure that leads are attached to harnesses and not collars for safety.
5. Quick dry towels or dry robes. Dry robes are amazing as there’s no need to dry your dog off with a wet towel, simply attach the towel to your dog and leave them to dry on their own.
6. Large bottle of water for rinsing. You’ll want to give your dogs little rinse to get rid of the saltwater as it can sometimes dry out the skin, plus they’re likely to have sand in between their paws which can irritate them. They’re also less likely to lick lots of salt when grooming themselves later.
7. Paw balm. A nice to have after their time on the beach especially as they’ve been in the water and on the sand all day, paw balm will keep them nice and moisturised.
8. Sun cream for dogs. If your dog has a thin coat or a pale nose then sun cream is a good shout to make sure they don’t suffer from any sun burn.

HEALTH TIP:  If your dog is drinking the sea water, then take them out immediately. Drinking lots of sea water can lead to salt poisoning. Most dogs won’t like the taste of course but some dogs, for whatever reason, might decide to lap it up. So take plenty of fresh water for them to drink so they aren’t tempted by the sea!

What to think about when staying in a hotel or cottage with your dog

Most cottages for dogs will be well equipped and ready. But it’s always a good idea to check ahead in case you need any of the following:

• Dog crate – do they have them or should you take your own.
• Dog bed – they might prefer their own but some places to have them set up ready.
• Stairgate – can be useful if you want to keep your dog from going upstairs
• White noise machine or speaker – if your dog struggles in new environments this might help them to relax and remove any unusual background noises.
• Poo bags – always a good idea to take more than you need!.
• Pet safe enzyme cleaner – just in case they do have any accidents.
• Blankets – some cottages don’t allow dogs on sofas or beds, but if they do, be sure to bring blankets for your dogs to sit on so they don’t get furniture dirty or covered in fur.

Other considerations when travelling with a dog

Some dogs can get car sick, even when they’ve been fine previously. So it’s nice to be prepared just in case. Here are some extra tips for you:

• It’s a good idea not to give them a big meal just before you travel.
• Build up trips in the car so they get used to slightly longer trips in case you do start to notice any anxiety or sickness – best to know now and not halfway through your holiday journey!.
• Keep your car ventilated.
• Take regular breaks so they can stretch their legs and take toilet breaks.
• If your dog does suffer with sickness you can speak to your vet and try some medication.

Hopefully this has been useful for you when thinking about your next trip with your dog. If you’ve got any more travelling questions, then just pop into the pet shop and let us know we’re always happy to help.

The post Tips for travelling with a dog this summer appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

The good news for you is that today, there are endless choices! It’s no longer a case of kennels or nothing. And kennels today are not the same as the picture of kennels you might have in mind. Some even call themselves dog hotels!

But where they stay is just as important as the people they’re saying with.

So we thought we’d put a little guide together so if you’re new to this, all the considerations we’ve had over the years we can share, so you can be confident you’ve done your due diligence and go away on holiday totally at ease and enjoying yourself knowing your pet is having fun too.

We can’t promise no wobbles when you leave them though. That’s normal. Not from them of course – it’s always us left standing there waving as they go off wagging their tail with their new friends!

What are the options when it comes to pet sitting?

There are a lot more options now when it comes to pet sitting, and a simple search online near you will bring up a range of options.

Kennels

Dog kennels can be a great option for some dogs. They have facilities like:

• Separate exercise fields for different types of dogs, often grouping them into personality types. Some kennels will be happy to walk dogs separately if they struggle with other dogs.
• Heated kennels with indoor and outdoor areas. Kennels are usually modern facilities with everything a dog needs including heating and access to an outdoor space.
• Secured and gated. Being in a kennels might be a good option for dogs that like to escape! Kennels tend to be very secure with high fencing and double doors to ensure dogs can’t escape, giving them a chance to be off lead during exercise times.

Home boarding

This option is where you take your dog to someone else’s house. Like a “home from home” environment.

The set up varies from one home boarder to another so you’ll need to do some investigative work.

Some home boarders take only 2-3 dogs, others more. Some have a crate and pen set up so dogs aren’t mixing from other households, whereas other home boarders will let dogs sleep on their beds.

Some home boarders specialise in reactive dogs and so know exactly how to handle your dog safely. Which for a lot of reactive dog owners is a welcome relief!

The set up you look for and need will very much depend on what you and your dog needs.

House Sitting

House sitting involves someone staying in your home while you’re away and caring for your pets in their familiar surroundings.

This can be an excellent option if you have multiple pets, such as dogs, cats, rabbits or other small animals, as they can all stay in their usual environment and routine.

It does require a little more planning, as you’ll need to ensure the house sitter has somewhere comfortable to sleep and provide them with all the information they’ll need about your home and your pets’ daily routines.

There are also websites that connect homeowners with house sitters. Some people travel around the country – or even internationally – house sitting in exchange for accommodation rather than payment.

Unlike home boarding businesses, house sitters staying in your home don’t require a local authority licence in England. If you’re using a professional house sitter, look for someone who’s insured, has positive reviews or references, and ideally belongs to a reputable house-sitting platform or professional organisation. If you’re arranging a house sitter privately, it’s worth carrying out your own checks and if you can, arrange a meet-and-greet before your trip to make sure they’re the right fit for both you and your pets.

What makes a good pet sitter

Here are some of our top things to look for when looking for a pet sitter.

Does your pet sitter offer a trial?

If your pet sitter doesn’t know your dog, then it’s always a good idea to have a trial before the big event.

The last thing you want is to be halfway to your holiday destination and have to come back because your dog wont settle or is struggling without you. A trial means they can take some time to get to know your dog for a short while before staying for a longer period.

They’ll have more time to pick up and understand their quirks. And of course it will help your dog with adjusting too. If it turns out your dog isn’t a good fit don’t see it as a failure, but information. For example, some dogs really don’t do well in a group setting where the dogs are all free together. If that’s your dog don’t worry! There are plenty of other home boarders who keep the dogs separately.

Is your pet sitter registered with the council or have insurance?

The regulations vary by council and of course things change over time, but generally, if someone is home boarding your dog in their own house they will need a licence. This means that they’ve bee inspected and the council have confirmed they follow all the necessary regulations. They’ll also have had to confirm with the council that they have public liability insurance.

 If however, they’re sitting in YOUR house, generally they don’t need a licence. But you’d still expect them to have their own insurance.

Is the pet sitter trained in first aid?

A professional first aid certificate is not required by law, but many pet sitters do choose to have one to demonstrate their commitment to your dog’s safety.  

Kennels and home boarders will have first aid kits as part of their licence. If you have someone coming to your house, make sure they know what to do in an emergency and where your local vets are. All good pet sitters will make you sign a form to say you’re happy for them to take you to their vets in an emergency and give your pet and treatment as deemed necessary by the vet.

Does your pet sitter have good reviews?

Reviews are a great way to find out more about what people love about your pet sitter. Look for reviews on Google and Trust Pilot. Website reviews are great but external reviews are more trustworthy. Often pet sitters are more than happy to connect you with other customers so you can ask questions and put your mind at ease.

Questions to ask your pet sitter

Sometimes it’s useful to have a list of questions to hand you can ask. Here are a few things we’d recommend:

• Are you insured?
• Do you have reviews or references?
• How many dogs do you care for?
• Will my dog be kept separated from the other dogs?
• Will my dog ever be left alone and how long for?
• Are you licensed for home boarding (if your dog is staying with them)?
• Can I see your licence?
• Are you trained in pet first aid?
• What happens if my dog becomes ill?

Will my dog be okay with a pet sitter?

This is probably one of the biggest questions that people ask. Will my dog be okay?

And wouldn’t we all love to have that certainty?!

But with the tips in this article, you’re going to have the best possible chance of being able to say yes. If they have a trial and come away happy, clean and rested, and all your questions have been answered satisfactorily, then there’s no reason why they wouldn’t be happy.

Although our dogs do love us very much, they are also very situational. While you’re not there, they’re likely more interested in their new environments and having fun with their new human friends!

If you’d like to get your dog some new toys to take away on their new trip we have so many to choose from! Take a look here at the toys we have in our pet shop.

Q&As about choosing a pet sitter

How far in advance should I book a pet sitter?

It’s always best to book as early as possible, especially during school holidays, Christmas and the summer months when a lot of pet sitters become fully booked. If you know your holiday dates, make sure to arranging a meet-and-greet or trial well in advance so you’ve got time to arrange an alternative if needed,

Can pet sitters look after small animals as well as dogs?

Sure. Many pet sitters care for rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, birds and other small pets as well as dogs. Always check what species they have experience with.

Can I leave my reactive or nervous dog with a pet sitter?

Sometimes – it depends. Some pet sitters specialise in caring for reactive, anxious or nervous dogs and could offer separate exercise, individual care or quieter environments. Always discuss your dog’s behaviour honestly so the sitter can recommend the safest option. The last thing you want is to out your dog or the sitter in a situation that could results in a snap or bite.

What should I give my pet sitter?

All the things you usually provide day to day, so your pet’s usual food, treats, medication (if needed), favourite toys, bedding, emergency contact details and their vet information in case of an emergency. They should have given you a form to complete. The more information you provide, the easier it is for your pet sitter to keep your pet comfortable and happy!

Will my dog miss me?

It’s always a worry! But honestly, most dogs settle as soon they become familiar with their surroundings and new friend. Your pet sitter is experienced enough to know how to keep them calm, settled and happy as they do this all day every day!

What’s the difference between dog boarding and pet sitting?

Dog boarding is where your dog stays at someone else’s home or in kennels. Pet sitting usually means that someone is going to stay at your house (or visit you house) while you’re away. Which option you choose will depend on your pets needs.

How can I trust my pet sitter?

Look for someone with genuine reviews (look at Trustpilot and Google) insurance and the relevant licences if needed from the council. Good communication and plenty of experience. A reputable pet sitter will happily answer your questions and encourage you to arrange a meeting before booking.

Can I leave my puppy with a pet sitter?

Yep – a lot of pet sitters will still look after puppies, but check they have experience as puppies need more toilet breaks, supervision and training.

The post Choosing a pet sitter – what you need to know and ask appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

When a dog displays anxiety, it can be extremely upsetting for everyone involved. You might not know why or where the anxiety is coming from and it can happen at any time in a dog’s life.

It’s considered anxiety when it’s consistent and effects the dog’s life.

A dog doesn’t have to be inherently anxious to experience anxiety. There could be several changes going on their environment to trigger it.

Even the most confident dogs can experience anxiety at some point in their life.

In this article we’ll dive into the signs of anxiety, including the ones you might not even notice, some of the reasons, how age can be a factor, and some practical steps you can take to help alleviate and even train your dog to feel more confident and content.

What are the signs of anxiety in a dog?

There are several signs of anxiety in a dog, and dog behaviour and body language can actually be quite complex. A waggy tail for example doesn’t always mean a happy dog. So, it’s a good idea to assess the situation in conjunction with the body language you’re seeing, and what you know is “normal” for your dog.

Shaking – probably the most obvious sign. Some dogs shake when they’re anxious or scared. It can be a small tremble or a more intense visible shake.

Panting or drooling – a dog panting is an often-missed sign as it’s a little less obvious. But if your dog goes from okay one minute to panting the next it’s a good sign they’re experiencing anxiety. You might also notice them drooling.

Barking – a barking dog is an anxious dog. We can mistake it for “aggression” but all the dog wants to do is tell the scary thing to go away. It’s part of a dog’s natural fight flight response. Some dogs hide under the table, some dogs bark. Same emotion just different reactions to it.

Pacing/Restlessness – It might be subtle to begin with. You might just notice your dog struggling to settle down. Moving from one place to another on repeat.

Whining – if your dog is whining for no apparent reason this could also be a sign of anxiety. You’ll probably find yourself trying to offer different solutions. Do they need the toilet? Food? Toys? But nothing seems to appease them.

All of these signs have varying levels. And generally, we don’t notice until it’s obvious. But if you can catch the anxiety early you’ve got a good chance of helping it not to escalate.

What can cause anxiety in dogs?

We can put the causes of anxiety into a few different categories.

Fear-Based Anxiety

Your dog could be fearful of:

• People – new people or novel looking people. Like workers in hi res jackets or that person walking down the street with an umbrella.
• Children – children are novel creatures and very unpredictable so it’s quite common for dogs to be anxious. Which is why we don’t ever advise leaving children and dogs alone together. Dogs can react or become anxious quite quickly, and children don’t always understand the warning signs. When we ignore dog behaviour, it can escalate. That’s when unintended nipping and bites can happen.
• Vets – a common fear for a lot of dogs. The vets are full of smells, strangers and other strange dogs and animals. They can also be prodded and poked and retain memories of previous visits.

Noise-Based Anxiety

You might have a dog that’s scared of:

Fireworks and Thunderstorms – your dog might hide or bark acting from their fight flight instinct.

Cars/Motorbikes – when cars rev up or motorbikes speed past, these can trigger dogs who have noise based anxiety.

Car Doors/Loud Bangs – any random loud noise that can cause a dog to be alarmed

Separation-Based Anxiety

Some dogs experience anxiety when their owners leave – even for very short periods of time. This can be upsetting for both you and your dog, and can cause your dog to carry out destructive behaviours like chewing things in the house, barking and pacing.

How can you help you dog’s anxiety?

It often comes own to training. When a dog is anxious about something it means they’re fearful. The opposite of fear is confidence. So, you need to train your dog to be confident.

Some people make the mistake of training only specifically around the thing your dog is scared of. Or go too quickly.

But if you improve your dog’s confidence overall it will impact their confidence around the issue they’re struggling with.

How to help your dog’s anxiety with training

Step 1

How you train depends on the type of fear they have, and how relaxed they are generally day to day.

For example, if your dog is not getting enough sleep or rest, training is unlikely to have much of an effect as they’re not in the right frame of mind to take it in. So first, have a look at your dog’s overall day and think about what else could be causing anxiety and what management strategies you could put in place to help them become more regulated.

• If they bark out the window regularly throughout the day, could you half cover it in film so they can’t see out.
• If they bark every time someone comes to the door can you limit their access?
• Could you introduce some calming supplements or plug ins like this adaptil diffuser.

Step 2

Work on their confidence around novelty

Dogs who are scared of people, children, noises, they all have something in common. These are novel unknown things. What could you train them around that’s novel that you’re in control over?

Maybe you could get a collection of random items from your Garage and place them in the garden, bring your dog out and scatter food around them. Make it a game.

Could you walk around your house in a hi vis jacket while playing a game with your dog.

The idea isn’t to draw attention to the novel thing and say ‘look here it is, it’s okay’ it’s to help them to see it and not notice. To not care. To understand that, this is very boring and there is something more interesting over here.

Step 3

Work on their confidence around the situation they’re scared of

This might mean putting in place management strategies, like crate training so they’re happy in a separate room when people come over. Or playing noises quietly in the background while feeding them a tasty long-lasting treat. Working with a trainer on this will really help as you’re bound to experience unknowns in your anxiety training, or setbacks, and a trainer can really help you keep up momentum and moving forward to help your dog.

When should you see a vet about your dog’s anxiety?

A dog living with constant anxiety might need to go on medication to help ease some of their anxiety enough to give them the capacity to work on training. If your dog’s anxiety struggles are affecting their quality of life (and yours) it’s probably time to consider it. Speak to your vet about the options as there are lots of different types of medication and you might need to try a few before you find one that works well.

Remember – it’s not your fault

Anxiety is hard for everyone. Especially if you yourself have struggles with anxiety or mental health. So please do speak to someone. Even just talking about it can alleviate some of your own worries. There is no shame in having an anxious dog. You haven’t done anything wrong. Dogs have their own personalities and temperaments just like humans. Some are more anxious than others – and they are very good at training themselves! So their anxieties can escalate.

But it is possible to help your dog – remember you’re not alone and you can come and talk to us anytime you like.

Frequently Asked Questions About Anxiety in Dogs

Can dogs get anxiety?

Yes – dogs can experience anxiety just like humans. Anxiety in dogs can be triggered by fear, environmental changes, loud noises, separation from owners and stressful experiences.

What are the signs of anxiety in dogs?

Common signs of anxiety in dogs include shaking, panting, drooling, barking, pacing, whining, restlessness and destructive behaviour. Some dogs may also hide or struggle to settle down.

Why is my dog suddenly anxious?

Dogs can suddenly become anxious because of changes in their environment or routine. This could include moving house, new people, loud noises, changes at home, illness or negative past experiences.

Is barking a sign of anxiety in dogs?

Yes – barking can often be linked to anxiety or fear. Dogs may bark at unfamiliar people, noises or situations because they feel threatened or overwhelmed.

Can dogs have panic attacks?

Dogs can experience intense fear responses that look very similar to panic attacks. Symptoms may include shaking, panting, pacing, barking, hiding or trying to escape.

What causes separation anxiety in dogs?

Separation anxiety happens when a dog becomes distressed when left alone. It’s more common in dogs who are very attached to their owners or who have experienced changes in routine or home life.

How can I calm an anxious dog?

You can help calm an anxious dog by reducing stressful triggers, providing enrichment and confidence-building activities, and using calming supplements, pheromone diffusers and even medication if appropriate.

Do calming diffusers work for dogs?

Some dogs respond really well to calming diffusers like Adaptil, especially during stressful situations such as fireworks, visitors or moving house. However, results vary from dog to dog.

Can anxiety cause destructive behaviour in dogs?

Yes – anxious dogs may chew furniture, bark excessively, pace or scratch at doors and windows. These behaviours are often linked to stress rather than “bad behaviour”.

Should I punish my dog for anxious behaviour?

No – punishment can increase fear and anxiety. Dogs displaying anxious behaviours need support, confidence-building and calm guidance rather than correction.

Can anxious dogs be trained?

Absolutely. Confidence-building training can make a huge difference for anxious dogs. Gradual exposure, positive reinforcement and management strategies can all help dogs feel safer and more relaxed.

When should I take my anxious dog to the vet?

You should speak to a vet if your dog’s anxiety is severe, affecting their quality of life, causing destructive behaviour, impacting eating or sleeping habits, or not improving with training and support at home.

Can older dogs develop anxiety?

Yes – older dogs can develop anxiety due to changes in hearing, eyesight, cognitive function or health conditions. Sudden anxiety in older dogs should always be checked by a vet.

Is anxiety in dogs common?

Very common. Many dogs experience anxiety at some point in their life, whether it’s related to noises, strangers, separation or environmental changes.

The post Why is my dog anxious? Signs of anxiety in your dog and what you can do to help them appeared first on Pet Stop Market Deeping.

Many things can cause anxiety in cats, and just like us, it can happen at any time of life, especially when changes are happening in their environment.

In this article we’ll dive into what anxiety in cats looks like, what could be the cause, and how to treat it so you can help your cat live a calmer and happier life.

What does anxiety in cats look like?

Cats are naturally cautious animals. Even as their owners, the people who feed and house them, not all cats are up for fuss from us and will likely spend time with you on their terms! (We know – so rude). But that doesn’t mean they’re anxious, it just means they have a personality. They’re also more likely to hide from visitors or strangers.

So the signs of anxiety can be harder to spot until they’re more noticeable.

Some things you can look out for include:

• Hiding more than usual
• Spraying around the house or peeing outside of their tray and around the house
• Less interested in food
• Increased vocalisation
• More hypervigilance than normal
• Restlessness
• Trembling
• Changes in sleeping habits
• Aggression
• Excessive grooming and hair loss
• Urine infections – some cats get UTIs when stressed and anxious and the UTI might keep coming back if you can’t get to the root cause of the stress.

What can cause anxiety in cats?

A lot of the time it’s a change in environment. Even the smallest changes can trigger it – so it’s worth knowing a few examples so you can keep an eye on your cat around times that could be challenging for them, so you can prepare and help make transitions easier.

Changes could include:

• Moving house – new smells, new location and people.
• Building work – people coming and going and lots of loud unexpected noises.
• Changes in routine – from working form home to leaving the house every day. Cats are creatures of habit.
• Territorial disputes – this is quite common if a new cat moves in nearby, and something you might not even be aware of. But you might find your cat running in through the cat flap or staring out the window while making noises.
• Lack of enrichment – especially important if you have indoor cats. You need to mimic their outside environment, chasing mice, climbing and having fun!
• New family members (pets or babies!) – anyone new in the house is going to cause a little upset. Some cats get past this super quickly; others take time and need a little more support.
• Separation anxiety – just like dogs, cats can experience this when they’ve spent so long with their human companions (or furry companions) it can cause a similar upset.

What are the treatment options for anxiety in cats?

There are practical things you can do to help treat anxiety in cats, plus supplements, diffusers, and even veterinary support. Which route you go down depends on what you’ve already tried and how severe your cat’s anxiety is.

Creating a safe environment

Whatever is going on at home, a cat wants to feel safe. Give them their own safe spaces, with cat trees, scratchers and hiding places. Make sure children know they shouldn’t enter the cat’s space and respect their alone time.

Routine

If you have a cat, you’ll know how uncanny they are at noticing when it’s feeding time! Keep to consistent food routines to lessen any unnecessary anxiety or stress.

Play

Play is good for everyone! Even you. Get the cat toys out and play like no-one is watching. Unleash your inner child. Your cat will be very thankful for it.

Diffusers and other calming supplements

Specially made pheromone diffusers can have an effect on some cats. You can get plugs, sprays and even wipes. A lot of cat owners say they make a significant difference. But they don’t work for everyone. It’s worth a try.

Veterinary Support

If all else fails (or if your cat has developed physical symptoms like a UTI) it’s always best to see a vet and see what other support you can get.

When should you see a Vet about your cat’s Anxiety

If your cat starts displaying some more serious symptoms that just aren’t manageable at home, it’s time for a trip to the vets. So if you’re noticing:

• Appetite loss and loss of weight
• Aggression
• Problems toileting, for example trying to pee and nothing is happening, or trying to pee on items around the house
• Excessive grooming that’s causing hair loss and soreness
• Any anxiety signs that are more persistent and don’t seem to go away not matter what you try.

Frequently Asked Questions About Anxiety in Cats

Can cats get anxiety?

Yes – cats can experience anxiety just like humans and dogs. Anxiety in cats is often caused by changes in their environment, loud noises, new pets, moving house, routine changes or territorial stress.

What are the signs of anxiety in cats?

Common signs of anxiety in cats include hiding, excessive grooming, aggression, spraying, peeing outside the litter tray, appetite loss, restlessness, trembling and changes in sleeping habits.

Why is my cat suddenly anxious?

Sudden anxiety in cats is often linked to changes in their environment or routine. This could include moving house, building work, a new pet, a new baby, visitors, or even another cat moving into the area.

Can stress make cats ill?

Yes – long-term stress and anxiety can affect a cat’s physical health. Some cats develop urinary tract infections, stress cystitis, digestive upset, hair loss from over grooming and appetite changes.

Can indoor cats get anxiety?

Absolutely. Indoor cats can become anxious if they don’t have enough enrichment or stimulation. Climbing spaces, toys, scratching posts and regular play can all help reduce stress and boredom.

How can I calm an anxious cat?

You can help calm an anxious cat by creating safe hiding spaces, sticking to routines, providing enrichment and play, reducing loud noises and trying calming pheromone diffusers. Some cats may also need support from a vet.

Do calming diffusers work for cats?

Calming diffusers work well for some cats, especially during stressful situations like moving house or introducing a new pet. However, they don’t work for every cat and may need to be combined with other support strategies.

Can cats get separation anxiety?

Yes – some cats experience separation anxiety, especially if they are very attached to their owner or another pet. Signs may include excessive vocalisation, destructive behaviour or toileting outside the litter tray when left alone.

When should I take my anxious cat to the vet?

You should see a vet if your cat stops eating, loses weight, becomes aggressive, struggles to urinate, develops hair loss or if anxiety symptoms continue despite trying calming strategies at home.

Is my cat anxious or just shy?

Some cats are naturally shy or independent, especially around strangers. Anxiety tends to involve ongoing behavioural changes such as excessive hiding, aggression, spraying, over grooming or changes in eating and toileting habits.

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